Medieval Saint Prix, on the edge of the forest, feels delightfully rural. But from the village church you can see the Sacré Coeur: Paris is 15 minutes by train. This is an immaculate small hotel in a beautiful village, with bedrooms that are really quite something. Decorated with a flourish and a theme, from boudoir chic to eastern exotica, all have Middle Eastern carpets, gorgeous textiles, crisp sheets. There’s purple-walled ‘Aladdin’ with an octagonal Syrian table and a silver hand basin and mirror, and lovely ‘Coloniale’, with a bamboo four-poster and magnificent long views – to Paris, of course. Bathrooms are worth a wallow, thanks to scented oils and fine soaps. Yves and Frédérique are a warmly professional couple and breakfast is worth getting up for, served in the creamy-walled Café de la Côte with a long velvet banquette and 1900s-style bar. Reservations for dinner are essential as there are only a handful of tables. You will find gourmet dishes and an organic wine list is as long as your arm plus a choice of nine champagnes. All this on the edge of fine forest; head off and explore.