Versailles the one and only. The gilded palace grandeur, the tiny old-town backstreets, the great lake of the Swiss Guards and, in between, a discreet door opening to a big rambling house warmed by cultured parents, well-mannered student offspring, friendly pets and the smell of beeswax. Bathe in books, blasts of colour and art (Laure is an accomplished artist and dress designer); a garden too. Climb two gentle floors (pictures to absorb at every step) to large light rooms with views over the Royal Gardens. Add unusual family furniture and a superb new biscuity shower room: this genuine family B&B is a rare privilege.