In a hamlet of stone houses, electronic gates glide open to an immaculate farmhouse owned by Catherine and Michel. In the barn are four bedrooms with forest views, two up and two down (with private terraces), all linked by a steep spiral stair. They’re big and stylish, with monsoon showers tucked behind half-height walls. Breakfast tables are laid with homemade breads and artisan jams, supper is good too, and the decked terrace is for all to share – you’ll even find an infrared Japanese sauna. In this deeply rural setting you have bikes to borrow (mountain or electric) and a station 4km away – set off for Paris and Versailles!