Clonleason sets the standard for self-catering in Ireland. Sinead has converted the Georgian lodge into the dandiest cottage that indulges the senses and yet, despite the luxury and attention to detail, never feels overly perfect: roses meet honeysuckle, country-house elegance meets cosy cottage. It lies secluded among trees at the end of her drive with only the odd tractor to interrupt the peace. You enter by the welcoming kitchen: a Welsh dresser storing patterned Portmeirion china, red deal cupboards distressed to create a limewash effect, oven, dishwasher, microwave and all the basics generously provided. Left is the sitting room: books, paintings and a comfy cream sofa in front of an open fire – so civilised. French doors open onto a terrace and a beautiful secret garden that leads to a small stream and the wild fields. The bedroom has lots of storage, fresh white linen on an excellent bed, coir matting and a pretty shower room. If you can drag yourself away, there are lovely river walks. Enchanting.