Calabria’s hills have become national parks and good beaches abound on its long rugged coast. On a hillside overlooking the rooftops of Lamezia – and beyond to the Tyrrhenian Sea – is an 18th-century farmhouse backed by wooded hills. Armida spent every summer of her childhood here, surrounded by a garden of bougainvillea and roses, lemons, vines, figs and palms. Generosity of spirit is what this place is all about; she and her mother run the B&B where bountiful breakfasts, on the terrace or inside, are a spread of breads, garden fruits and homemade cakes and jams. Enter the light-filled hallway to find the family quarters to the left, the new breakfast room in the old wine cantina, and a staircase leading to three big bright bedrooms above. Pristine, modern and terracotta tiled, one sports a dressing area behind apricot curtains and iron bedframes painted green, another a vibrant peach-coloured wall and a gleaming hydromassage tub.