Trickle down a side street strangely full of elegant, crumbling palazzi to the Albini family’s charming palazzo where stunning views sweep over valley and hills to the sea beyond. On a clear day you can see as far as Capri. Step into a cool courtyard and all is reassuringly welcoming, in this civilised old home where your cultured hosts (keen foodies) live as an extended family. Guest bedrooms are tile-floored and elegantly understated with swagged curtains, lofty ceilings, no TVs. Plump for the suite that looks onto the rose garden where you breakfast amid shady cypresses – or tuck yourself away in the stable with its downstairs sitting room. Pamper yourself in the Turkish bath, book in for a beauty treatment, amble to the village for supper, then back for a film in the little cinema. Expect breathtaking sunsets from the garden, pomegranates and lavender, hikes through valleys of wild orchids – and the best home-made crostata ever! Never mind the odd bit of peeling paint, this is a welcoming base for the Ancient Greek colony of Velia and the Charterhouse in Padula – and don’t miss Thursday’s market in Agropoli.