500-year-old Casperia is a characterful, car-free maze of cobbled streets in the Sabine Hills. La Torretta, a long-time Sawday’s favourite, has the dreamiest views from its rooftop terrace, and easy interior spaces and furnishings designed by owner architect Roberto. A large, cosy sitting room with beautiful frescoes around the cornicing welcomes you… old stone fireplace, modern sofas, library, paintings, piano. The upper room – opening onto that terrace – is an exposed-beamed contemporary living space with an open kitchen, communal dining table, and views through skylights to church tower and valley. Maureen, warm-hearted and hospitable, is passionate about the region and its interesting itineraries including mapped out hiking trails. She and her daughter Jennifer, arrange cookery courses and will prepare a meal (on request) using the area’s certified virgin olive oil and seasonal, organic, locally-sourced produce. Whitewashed, high-ceilinged bedrooms and lovely suite are charming in their simplicity; travertine bathrooms are a treat. Don’t worry about having to leave your car in the square below the town: with prior arrangements bags can be picked up.