Right by the Coliseum, in one of Rome’s largest squares where pieces of the ancient city are scattered on all sides, is this newly restored, well-organised apartment. Here you’ll find a delightful combination of youth, dedication and family tradition with a fresh sense of hospitality and great sensitivity to travellers’ needs. Stefano and Maria offer all the modern amenities in their comfortable, informal place in an authentic part of Rome, away from the tourist clamour yet with everything within walking distance. They have used reclaimed timber, Grandmother’s furniture, great fabrics, the occasional updated chandelier and an understated Italian sense of style to create a shabby-chic, contemporary mood in six charming bedrooms. With their high ceilings and big French windows, they are luminous and airy – plus brand new mattresses and a neat new shower room in each. Breakfast is brought to you in your room – at a time that suits you. The magnificent St John in Lateran, Rome’s first church, is just round the corner. On Sunday, hire a bike and ride the lovely Appian Way.