This, too, is five minutes from the Trevi Fountain – most breathtaking by night – but in a separate street from Casas Trevi I and II. Marta – full of warmth, a busy bee – has waved her stylish wand again and created a deeply desirable place to stay. She employed one of the top restoration experts in Rome to make ceiling beams glow and terracotta floors gleam – and the result? Old Rome meets new. Up a tiny lift to the third floor and into an open-plan sitting, dining and kitchen area – black, white, grey, chic, with a polished wooden floor. A discarded shutter for a frame, an antique door for a bedhead, air con to keep you cool, double glazing to ensure quiet. The white-raftered twin and double rooms share a sparkling, 21st-century shower in beige marble. Modigliani prints beautify cream walls, mirrored doors reflect the light, silk cushions sprinkle the sofa and shutters are painted dove-grey. Never mind the tourists and the street vendors, Rome lies at your feet. And you have the unassuming Trattoria della Stampa, where the locals go, in the very same street.