Hotel Santa Maria

Breakfast is a feast, fittingly for Trastevere – a neighbourhood of Rome renowned for its trattorias and outdoor eateries. In warm weather you can eat under orange trees in the quiet central courtyard, in winter by a roaring fire under the arch of an ancient artisan’s workshop. Each evening, this space transforms into a private bar where regional wines and finger foods are served – a great place to meet other guests and chat with utterly delightful owners, Paolo and Valentina, and their team of staff. Ground floor bedrooms and family suites wrap around the courtyard, shielded somewhat from Rome’s bustle and with most opening directly out to a wooden portico. A sunny, natural feel pervades, with yellow walls, pretty stencilling and street scenes by a local artist on the wall; up on the roof, a sun deck dotted with umbrellas and chairs. You’re a block from the Piazza di Santa Maria with its ancient church. Bring walking shoes or borrow a bike: you can cross the bridge for Campo de’ Fiori, turn right for the Forum and Colosseum, and follow the Tiber north to St Peter’s and the Vatican.