It’s a steep walk up – but that’s part of the charm of this tall, stone, blue-shuttered house at the top of the village. Its greatest charm is up more steps: a rooftop terrace, shaded by arches, with mesmerising views over olive groves to the sea. Breakfast here on Laura’s homemade bread and cakes, jams and local honey; come evening, drink in the sunsets. A beautifully uncomplicated house, the two light-filled bedrooms, with traditional tiled floors and shuttered windows, have their own charming sitting rooms. Furnishings are simple, prettily rustic and inviting: the views over tree-cloaked valleys to the sea, enchanting. Bathrooms sparkle with large showers and organic soaps. Well-travelled Laura is warm and open, with strong environmental principles, reflected in the house and food. Midway between hills and sea, you can hike, cycle, swim, explore ancient villages, take a dip in crystal-clear rivers. Or doze in a hammock in the garden, tumbling with roses, lavender and clematis. Buy a picnic (Dolcedo is 4.5km), pick fruit and tomatoes from the garden and eat under the olive trees. A simple charmer.