In the little fishing village of Noli – a big surprise! Behind the potted box trees is a friendly B&B with a boutique feel. Enter a communal space, sharp, chic, white, a reflection of the dazzling seaside beyond. Traditional furniture (a wooden hutch full of antique plates) is juxtaposed with funky modern (a ceramic collage) and whimsical touches (‘plastic’ dishes that turn out to be glass). A big restoration has taken place to lick this former warehouse into shape and Andrea does it all – reception, breakfast, laundry. He loves both house and guests so lap up the luxury. The six bedrooms have high ceilings and generous windows (though views are unmemorable), thick curtains flow, down pillows are heaped high, bursts of colour come from pleasing art and bathrooms are hugely spoiling. Best of all are the breakfasts, served on the terrace in summer: prosciutto and melon, buffalo mozzarella, fresh smoothies, homemade cakes; some of it finds its way into picnic baskets if you set off on the bikes. Burn it all off with some fierce hiking in the hills; there are delicious villages to be discovered.