Come for humungous breakfasts, with wine if you like, of the full fresh focaccia variety (different every day), cheese from local shepherds, salami with garlic, olive pâté, fresh fruit, cakes and pastries, the list is endless. All is served on a riot of fancy china with vintage linen table cloths and twinkling glasses. You eat on the terrace overlooking the garden in summer or have it delivered to your room with a bit of notice. Bedrooms are spread out over the big house so you shan’t feel hemmed in by other guests.
There are armchairs and sofas in each comfortable bedroom, and mirrors, Annamaria likes mirrors. Step out to ‘the city of a hundred spires’, explore the medieval centre with its baptistry and cathedral, and the museum with the remains of a 1st century ship. There are plenty of independent shops and good restaurants.
Return for a nightcap under olive and lemon trees by the tinkling fountain in the garden.