On the banks of Lake Como, a very charming family-run B&B, housed in a villa simply modernised and redecorated with a nicely laid-back feel. Bedrooms are humble, functional, with cheery shower rooms and (mostly) lakeside views. Some have balconies, one has its own little terrace. A road runs between you and the busy lake, so if you’re a light sleeper, it may be worth giving up those shimmering views for a room at the back – at least in summer. No need to tip-toe round the owners: Paola is a delight, very generous and treats guests as friends. Breakfasts include homemade bread, cakes, savoury offerings and jams, husband Ty prepares a different menu of wholesome food every day, while Paola is “mistress of desserts”. You can eat inside and admire the ever-changing local art work lining the walls or outside where you can embrace the lake views on the terrace that juts onto the water. You won’t be short of advice here on things to do: visits to gardens and villas, boat tours to Isola Comacina, day trips to St Moritz and the Engadine. The ferries are a step away.