In the 19th-century the Austrian Royal family stayed here for months at a time. Now everyone is treated like royalty and to step out into such peace and beauty in front of this ancient fortress, turned luxurious spa hotel, feels extraordinary. Friendly staff will talk you through the range of spa experiences, advise on sports at every level, and on pillow choices.
The food here is memorable too: buffet lunches and dinners are a treat; breakfasts simply amazing – the selection is vast, including yogurt delivered daily by the farmer whose cows graze at over 1,600m, and prosecco. In nearby Bormio, do dine at the sister Bagni Nuovi hotel and spa restaurant, The Ball Room, or at the traditional Valtellina Restaurante Filo (their local wine list is 250 strong).
Milan is a three hour drive, the lovely (tax free) Livigno 30 minutes, Tirano half an hour.