Place and people have extraordinary charm. Pines, cypress oaks and roses surround the Napoleonic villa, wisteria billows over the lemon house, the gardens merge into the family olive groves and an ancient wood. No formality, no fuss, just an easy, gracious and kind welcome from Anna, who lives here with her youngest son. The villa was named after an indomitable great-aunt (the first woman to climb Mont Blanc!) and the family furniture is perfect for it – big wood-framed mirrors, stunning antiques – along with a candle burn on the mantelpiece left by the Nazis. Bedrooms, the best and most baronial in the villa, have shutters and old-fashioned metal beds; one noble bathroom has its own balcony, another is up a winding stair. The two suites in La Dependenza have kitchenettes while the apartments proper are divided between the Farmhouse and the Casa Piccola. Sitting rooms are grand but easy, dining room chairs are gay with red checks, summer breakfasts are taken at pink-clothed tables on a terrace whose views reach to the Adriatic (the beach is a mile away). Atmospheric, historic, beautiful, and good for all ages.