A gentle wind up through a mosaic of small grazed fields and olive groves bound by dry stone walls (so typical here) delivers you to refreshingly cooler climes… and a higgledy-piggledy collection of old buildings that make up this stunning masseria – searingly white against the cobalt sky. Some people just get it when it comes to restoring an old building, and these owners – young, enthusiastic, instantly likeable – certainly do. Together, Beniamino, a talented architect, and Maria who has a profound interest in local tradition, have restored their 17th-century trulli with the sort of sensitivity that would make the most exacting restorer proud. Four guest suites, housed under four conical roofs, are fresh, cool and stylish with whitewashed walls, pretty blue shutters and an elegant mix of antiques and funky modern pieces; bathrooms, not huge, are well kitted out. Outside, mulberries, olives, prickly pears and lavenders have been newly planted, and a jasmine shaded pergola with a vast stone slab of a table has views over the Murgia plateau to the shimmering sea – the spot for a sunset aperitivo!