In the centre of Spongano, the courtyard walls of this 18th century masseria drip with creepers and geraniums; in front, across a little road, is a verdant citrus grove worth resting in. All this is part of a vibrant working farm. Go through the massive gates and the Moorish-arch portico and you will leave the narrow village streets to enter a white-gravelled courtyard with wrought-iron tables and chairs. Ground-floor apartments have been carefully converted into a series of airy, old-style rooms. Walls are colour-washed warm yellow, ceilings are lofty and vaulted, and there’s a vast roof terrace. One apartment for two has a dining space squeezed into an ancient fireplace, bathrooms have pretty mosaic mirrors, most of the kitchenettes are tiny. Cakes and marmellata are served for breakfast in an impressive stone-vaulted room which leads out to the pool. La Macchiola is devoted to the production of organic olive oil and Anna’s family make some of Puglia’s finest oils. Cooking, yoga, pilates and ‘pizzica’ dance classes can be arranged – you can even get married here. Beaches are a short drive.