At the tip of the heel of Puglia, characterized by flat farms lined with centuries-old olive trees, wonderfully twisted and gnarly, is the unique area of Salento. Close to a small village with some tempting trattoria, near the beaches of the Ionian Sea, is the gate to Masseria Cisternella. Miriam, a natural hostess with Tuscan origins, has resurrected her grandfather’s old olive farm; now she and her mother transfer down to Puglia every summer to run their B&B. Across the way from the main house are three single-storey stone outbuildings that have been sympathetically converted into five guest rooms with private entrances, fronted by a quadrangle of lavender and herbs. Inside, family antiques and artisan-made reproductions rest beneath lofty mansard ceilings, illuminated by light streaming in and white bedspreads from Sardinia, while contemporary bathrooms have rain showers and rock basins; all is calming, charming and cool. Best of all, beautiful breakfasts are brought to individual curtained gazebos within sight of the sea – homemade cakes and jams, fresh ricotta, local cheeses and hams.