Castello Camemi, once owned by the Ventimiglia family and recently rescued from ruin, is a part-crenellated 16th-century masseria with a grand grassy quadrangle and a carob tree. It sits on hill in splendid isolation with views that take your breath away; imagine snow-capped Etna all rosy as the sun rises. Inside are warm stone walls, white sofas, ecru draperies, an altar from the 1700s, rustic stone fireplaces – three of the suites have them – white candles and white chandeliers. Outside is an ‘English lawn’ dotted with palms, a long elegant pool floodlit for night swims, and an archway to the quadrangle. Wrapped around this are 11 bedrooms, and three more above. One has a dramatic circular window, another a gold-leaf sofa, all have beautiful soaps in rustic-chic bathrooms. The restaurant is open to the public and the menu is classic Sicilian. Borrow bikes, hire horses, book massages, visit Caltagirone, Catania, Vizzini, baroque wonders all. This is a place for a special occasion, indeed, summer weddings are often held in the courtyard, and can last into the early hours.