A big, central Catania apartment in an 18th-century building just off Via Etnea – that runs all the way to the slopes of Mount Etna. You can see Etna, beyond ancient domes and modern construction, from the rooftop terraces. At street level a classic door leads to a communal courtyard and the colourfully decorated stairway to this impressive, largely second floor, living space. Two dining rooms; one painted red, seats 24, formally; the airy well-equipped kitchen opens onto the other, with its balcony. Frescos ancient and modern cover walls and ceilings. There are splendid chandeliers, antiques galore, beautiful ceramic tiles and some new additions like wooden flooring and the stairs to the ‘suite delle terrazze’ (gateway to the rooftop and the smallest room, with kitchenette). Bathrooms are all contemporary, in Cosimo beige stone. Owner and architect Daria has made the double bedrooms stylish with her colour creations; is happy to organise tours and activities, and may let suites individually. Shops and eateries surround you here; the Fera ‘O Luni daily market and the elegant Villa Bellini Park are a stroll away.