An amazing position, strolling distance from the Duomo, the Greek and Roman amphitheatres, the Benedictine monastery, and the spa of Achilles. Visit the ancient fish market for buckets full of snails and clams, eels, tuna, squid and swordfish from Favignana… then bring back your spoils to the barbecue and the kitchen (it’s a wow!). Ursino Roof Garden, spread across the second and top floors of a 19th-century townhouse, is a bright, uplifting, modern two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment with a central terrace garden and a brilliant castle view. Even larger is Flat 12 (as yet unseen by us) with three bedrooms and a winter garden for home cinema and surround sound; imagine watching movies beneath a star-studded sky. Two bedrooms have balconies facing the ancient Castello Ursino and the décor is the finest of contemporary thanks to architect owner Massimiliano who lives nearby and couldn’t be nicer. Chefs, take a night off and go where the locals go, Bar Savia in Via Etnea, for some of the best arancini (ragu-stuffed rice balls) and cannoli (local pastries) in all Sicily.