An amazing position, strolling distance from the Duomo, the Greek and Roman amphitheatres, the Benedictine monastery, and the spa of Achilles. Visit the ancient fish market for buckets full of snails and clams, eels, tuna, squid and swordfish from Favignana… then bring back your spoils to the barbecue and the kitchen (it’s a wow!). Ursino Roof Garden, spread across the second and top floors of a 19th-century townhouse, is a bright, uplifting, modern two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment with a central terrace garden and a brilliant castle view. Flat 18, which lies on one floor, offers plenty of space, a large downstairs living room with a sofabed, a kitchen with everything you need, two sparkling bathrooms and two secluded terraces, the higher one big enough for basking in the sun. Two double bedrooms are crisp and neat – there’s an extra sofabed on the mezzanine floor. Decorative old floor tiles remain (as you’d expect from an architect owner), the decorations are contemporary and thoughtful – white walls, splashes of colour, open metal stairs (no toddlers), bold art, a fine antique dotted here and there. Massimiliano, the architect owner, lives nearby and couldn’t be more helpful. Chefs, take a night off and go where the locals go, Bar Savia in Via Etnea, for some of the best arancini (stuffed rice balls) and cannoli (local pastries) in all Sicily.