10 minutes from the sandy beach at Trapetto, Lilli’s cottages are in a lovely big citrus grove with ancient olive trees, vines and distant mountain views. Created out of one low, terracotta pantiled building – formerly animal stalls – their walls are thick and windows small; it’s cool when it’s hot, warmed by wood burners when it’s not. It’s all very relaxing and unpretentious, with plenty of room outside to eat, rest and play. Take to a hammock or a lounger in the shade of a lemon tree, by the natural pond, or the small swimming pool. There are swings, a see saw and a barbecue and Lilli’s put her exuberant creative stamp on mosaics and tiling. She’s weaved her magic indoors, too, making the cosy spaces colourful and fun with painted furniture, bright fabrics and tiles; pictures, posters and photos; quirky old bottles, a lace tablecloth and handsome wrought iron balustrades. Crowded kitchens have all you need, each cottage has two simple bathrooms and comfy beds have cotton sheets and plump pillows under low ceilings. Explore North West Sicily – Palermo, Scopello, Segesta are close – or just take it easy and stay local.