Just off a shaded courtyard garden lush with trees and lily pond, the day starts at crisply laid tables. Breakfast, lovingly prepared by Mama Irma (ex mathematics teacher, fan of Euclides), is accompanied by conversation and laughter: flaky croissants and warm pastries, smoked meats and cheeses, homemade jams and fresh fruits and juices. Lirma, a 1960s apartment on a fairly busy street, is three blocks from the old heart of town, and comes with its own (precious) parking. Rosa Maria, Giuseppe and Irma live on the upper storeys and the B&B rooms, not large, not luxurious, but inviting, are below, most with double doors onto the garden. New furniture mixes with family pieces, there are white walls and floors and bold splashes of colour, super bathrooms and air con; if you bring a baby, there are cots too. Seaside Cefalù may be touristy but it’s charming, with cobbled streets and stunning Duomo, sandy beaches, shimmering views, and little restaurants serving melon, mozzarella, prosciutto. Note that a private beach with a bar, restaurant and loungers comes at a special price for those who stay at Lirma.