Close to the coast, in hilly country planted with olive, citrus, pistachio and carob trees, this ancient masseria has evolved over the years, many of them with the Alfieri family at the helm. Tina Alfieri lives here now and runs the apartments with great charm. She’s a local history, nature and animal-lover; organises wine tastings and literary readings; massage and spa treatments, and yoga sessions too. There’s an air of tranquility as you arrive through the stone arch to the grassy walled garden, fragrant with jasmine, roses and bougainvillea. The four beamed and tiled apartments share one of the courtyards (a pool is planned) and each has an open-plan living area with corner kitchen. Upstairs, attractively uncluttered bedrooms – Malavoglia’s has a sea view – have a smattering of vintage/antique pieces; iron headboards above well-clad beds. Bathrooms successfully mix new and old: some are lined with pietra pece local black stone, all have sinks made from old fonts. Bikes are on the house; you can visit the spectacular Cava d’Ispica en route to Modica and take a fast ferry to Malta from the nearby resort of Pozzallo.