Turn off the tarmac and weave your way through the Alcamo wine-growing area to a little white farmhouse surrounded by lemon and pear trees where Filippo and his brother tend organic vines, olives and goats. A former jazz pianist, Filippo will happily take you on a tour – perhaps by bike, with a picnic in the pannier – of the estate. Join chef Saverio for a cookery course in the rustic kitchen; he will share his secrets for preparing seasonal Sicilian dishes using fresh, local ingredients. You might try sfincione pizza, caponata, grilled lamb, basil liqueur…The dining room may not win any design awards, but the food is authentically, deliciously Sicilian, with organic vegetables, olive oil and wine from the estate. Two large suites and two doubles are above the dining room, with two others in a separate building. All are airy, light and plain, with tiny showers. It feels wonderfully remote, but within an hour you can be exploring Segesta’s Greek amphitheatre or the Zingaro coastal reserve. Come not for luxury and fancy furniture, but for true Sicilian hospitality, scrumptious food and life on a working vineyard.