Once a grand and self-sufficient estate, Duca Di Castelmonte has been in this family for five generations. Leave urban sprawl behind, and enter a jolly, much-loved home and agriturismo with a restaurant, 15 apartments and a fabulous pool. Three generations live here, along with ponies, donkeys, dogs and hens so it’s heaven-sent for children (and Italian children stay up late…). The apartments ramble between courtyards, through archways, around trees, some on the ground floor, others up an outside stair, the quietest away from the restaurant, and away from early-to-wake animals! You have white walls, tiled floors, wrought-iron beds, and kitchenettes and bathrooms that are basic but spotless. Outside: olive, citrus groves, polytunnels, fields of vegetables – pick to your heart’s content. There’s a playground in the pines, a bar by the pool, a sitting room for WiFi, and lovely Sicilian food: authentic antipasti, pizzas, barbecues, plentiful wine, ricotta made in front of your eyes. Make friends in different languages across the long dinner table.