Escape the coast, head for the hills, keep an eye out for the Greek temple of Segesta. Then you reach a pot-holed road that buckles through vineyards, citrus groves and rough fields where sheep graze with their ringing bells; this is an ancient landscape. Caterina’s sprawling stone farmhouse, its land and its rose-strewn garden have been in the family for generations. Cultured, gentle, a lovely hostess, she welcomes you in and lives up the hill. The farmhouse’s front is inset with a huge panel of glass embracing the arch of a former barn, behind which red streamlined sofas sit beneath high beams, art old and new hangs on plain white walls and cabinets hold small sculptures and pottery: it’s stunning. A modern kitchen stands where oil was once pressed and there’s a second kitchen above, with a tiny terrace and the loveliest views. Some beds have a painted headboard, all have simple white bed covers, bathrooms are minimalist and spotless. Splash in the beautiful salt water pool, bask under the gazebo, explore the beaches of old Castellammare, the swimming coves of Scopello, the nature reserves of Zingaro.