In a postcard-pretty Tyrolean village, the ‘Little Gold Horse’ has been welcoming travellers for 700 years. The market runs every Friday in summer, the local farmers set up their stalls at the foot of the 18th-century bell tower. This was Austria not so very long ago: the local customs are still alive, and regular concerts take place at the inn over dinner. Inside, all is as charming and pretty as can be, and bedrooms mostly delightful (note a few rooms have roof windows only). Some look onto the medieval square, the best have balconies with incredible views. There’s a fascinating mix of antique country beds – some hand-decorated, some four-poster, some both; room 9 still has the original ceiling. Dine in the sparkling dining room, breakfast in the rustic stübe, a wood-panelled room with checked tablecloths and geraniums at the window. Susanna and Stefan are as friendly as they are efficient and the service throughout is wonderful. Take the free shuttle to the cable car up to the stunning Alpe di Siusi; swim, hike or bike in summer, sleigh ride and ski in winter, steam in the spa all year round.