It’s not often that a bio-hotel comes with such a splash of luxury. Built a century ago, the old Hermitage has been entirely refashioned – with a modern ‘eco’ eye and a flourish of decorative turret. A wooden floor spans the reception area; behind is a vast and comfortable living room. A Tyrolean-tiled wood-burner dominates the centre; windows open onto a balcony with some of the best views in the Alps. You eat at red-clothed tables on Trentino dishes and homemade pasta in the stübe, with its lovely panelled ceiling of old, recycled wood. The main restaurant is larger but just as beautiful. Bedrooms are serene, some are under the eaves, most have a balcony and the suites are huge. Wooden floors are softened by Persian rugs or pale carpets from Argentina, curtains and bedspreads are prettily checked. There’s a superb wellness centre and an indoor pool with a ceiling that sparkles. Bars and chic boutiques are a ten-minute walk, and the hotel has its own bus that shuttles you to the slopes. Santa tips up at Christmas distributing presents for the children from a little cabin at the end of the garden.