Italophile wine buffs revel in this gorgeous place and the embracing warmth of the Marcelli family. Tulio loves to talk about their vineyard and the history of the estate – centred on the courtyard: a handsome accumulation of buildings with 12th century origins, including the chapel where he and Linda married. She takes care of their children and guests with unfussy style. In a separate building across from the main house are her simply elegant rooms. Each has a living area with sofa, desk, books and TV. Busatti bed linen, firm mattresses and plump feather pillows on wrought iron and classic dark wood beds; stone, beams, boards and wonderfully chunky doors. More Busatti in the big bathrooms and downstairs – pretty much whenever you like – breakfast, served on colourful clay pottery, is a celebration of things homemade, local and organic: a freshly baked cake and bread every day, jams and honey, cheeses and charcuterie. It’s deeply peaceful here yet only 15 minutes’ from bustling Arezzo with its grand piazzas and antique market; bliss to return for a cooling dip in the pool, to the sound of crickets.