A cross between B&B and hotel – no room service but a friendly face on reception all day – the residenza idea is perfect for the independent traveller. Lea Gulmanelli has got her residenze down to a fine art and what’s special about this one is the roof terrace. Weave your way past antiques tucked under sloping ceilings and up to a wide, sun-flooded, pergola’d space for breakfast and sundowners with a classic panorama of Florence – thrilling at night! The entire top floor of this restored 19th-century palazzo feels bright, light and inviting. Furnishings are colourful and fresh, bedrooms – some lofty, some more intimate – have beautiful silk-canopied four-poster beds, delicate prints on walls and mozzie-protected windows. Luxurious extras include radios, free WiFi, air conditioning and satellite TV, there’s an honesty bar for drinks and polished tables for breakfast. Michelangelo’s David is at the Accademia round the corner, the Duomo is a ten-minute walk.