Follow the umbrella pines from the Maremma coast to meet friendly hosts Ellen and Luciano. Soak up the essence of their 200-year-old farmhouse at breakfast in the stables, alongside the old wooden drinking troughs. Homemade cakes, jams, honey from the local beekeeper and good Italian coffee set you up for a day’s Etruscan sightseeing and beach swimming – or decadent idling around the grassy open terrace, amid acres of olive groves and fig and plum orchards. Views are of the Alma valley, the breezy sea and fields where wild boar roam. This renovated home on a hillock has solar power and upscale appliances, tricks like skylights and glass bricks let light flood in, and 18th-century prints and Navajo rugs top wrought-iron beds in rooms named after the Tuscan archipelago: Capraia, Elba, Giglio. Local organic smellies rest on modern square sinks in huge bathrooms and your private terrace has furniture for sun and shade; listen to the crickets, donkeys, wind in the pines. A four-star campsite nearby has social cafés, shops and bike hire. Best of all, the exquisite sands of Cala Violina cove are a short stroll.