What a position: in a secluded corner of Lucca, a minute from bars, restaurants and ramparts. There’s a fresh-faced enthusiasm about the little San Martino now that the young Morottis have taken over; smiling faces behind reception and breakfasts that delight. Expect cheese and salami platters, baskets of different breads, homemade cakes, yogurts and fresh fruits every day – enjoyed in the courtyard in summer. No architectural flourishes, no rushes to the head – just a simple, comfortable, family-run hotel in one of Italy’s loveliest towns. Gone are the fitted carpets, new are the wooden floors. The traditionally furnished, uncluttered bedrooms have creamy silk-like curtains and soft coloured walls, cute shuttered windows and interesting paintings, refurbished bathrooms, the odd fresco. Two new suites in the adjoining building have hydromassage baths and showers and Room 108 gets its own terrace, but all of them will please you. The Duomo is a stroll, there’s a concert in San Giovanni every night, and bike rental – for Lucca’s cycle-friendly walls – is nearby.