If you seek adventure and seclusion in deepest Tuscany, read on – for this authentic hillside hamlet, unchanged for centuries, holds a certain thrill. It clings precariously to terraced olives and vines just north of Lucca, a jumble of stone farmworkers’ houses, not all inhabited. Up 45 low steps is No. 13, a cool, rustic cocoon of chunky stone, terracotta and chestnut, whose wonderful terrace gazes south and west over the multi-coloured Serchio valley. Laze out here on wicker chairs, reading in the sun, chatting over an espresso, enjoying meals prepared with the owner’s complimentary home-produced olive oil. The rustic kitchen flows through an original arch into a large, whitewashed sitting room with local furniture and a wood-burner for autumn nights. The simple bedrooms share a big tiled bathroom – and that stunning view. It’s a 20-minute walk down a steep, ancient mule path to Valdottavo village, or set off in the car down the hairpin bends. An intriguing place of seclusion and inspiration, where you may hole up to pen a novel or spend happy days roaming the Garfagnana and Apuan Alps.