The sense of space is stunning – the vast, medieval hall, the lofty ceilings, the stone walls, the flights of stairs… a fairy tale. Original arches give glimpses of passageways beyond and many of the rooms are connected by little ‘bridges’ with the millstream far below. Outside the restored watermill there’s a large terrace for delicious breakfasts, a lovely long pool, and a small amphitheatre where the odd concert is held. You’re in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by trees and it’s immensely quiet – just the sound of water and birds. All feels fresh and clean, the atmosphere is welcoming and informal, and nothing is too much trouble for the staff. Sparsely, elegantly and comfortably furnished, the great hall makes a cool, beautiful centrepiece to the building – and there’s a snug with a fireplace where you can roast chestnuts in season. Excellently equipped, smallish bedrooms have terracotta tiled floors and good, generously sized beds. You dine in the conservatory overlooking the stream, on mainly Tuscan dishes – be tempted by truffles and local delicacies. Historic Radda is a ten-minute drive.