In the fresh, clean air of a forested hilltop, this medieval hamlet once guarded Siena from marauding invaders. Now it’s a charming hotel, with space to relax and a restaurant in the wine cellar. Rolling green views – pure Tuscany – are best enjoyed from the infinity pool, set amid flowers, lush grass and big old trees; bliss. Meals are taken on the terrace at sunset, or cosily under rustic brick arches; food is fresh, local, and again, pure Tuscany. If you feel your belt tightening, use the communal kitchen to prepare your own snack, then settle on the sofas upstairs, or warm yourself by the enormous stone fireplace downstairs. Two sitting rooms are dotted with eye-catching paintings and books – great conversation-starters in this sociable place. With the motorway close by, you can zip everywhere; or ask Giancarlo about wine tours, horse riding, polo lessons, hot springs. Wake to a slow buffet breakfast and take your turn guarding Siena, from the comfort of that heavenly pool. And when night and peace fall, trot across to big, bold bedrooms with chunky wood beams, terracotta floors, deep chic baths and huge walk-in showers.