Close to some of the finest ‘jewel’ hilltop towns in Tuscany, at the top of the winding white road – ah, the breezes! – is a well-proportioned 19th-century villa with heart-stopping, Giotto-esque views. Through impressive stone gates are ochre walls that have mellowed with time, and outbuildings that glow in the sun. When the owners are not here, Ilaria and Giorgio usher you in and show you the apartments of which there are five. ‘Terrazza’ is above the cellar, with a vast terrace for an even vaster view; single-storey ‘Casetta’ is traditional-new, with its own little garden and gazebo; ‘Fornace’ is in a renovated outbuilding, with a chunky beamed country kitchen and two big floors; and rustic ‘Torrino’ and ‘Bellavista’ are in the main villa. The décor is traditional, comfortable, relaxed – a leather sofa here, an antique bread chest there, swagged cream curtains, a painted door as a bedhead, a marble fireplace for winter. You’re ten minutes from Monticchiello for provisions, but why not book in for dinner here? Warm, friendly Giorgio is an excellent cook and he also takes care of the wines (they’re delicious).