Huddled high above the lovely Valnerina valley and topped by a tower, this stunningly pretty medieval village has been brought back to life by two tenacious Italian architects. Park at the bottom and take the lift (yes) up to the centre to stay in one of fourteen houses transformed into high-quality hotel suites and apartments: an ‘albergo diffuso’. The sumptuously big uncluttered suites have superb views, interesting modern art on pale walls, plenty of books on shelves and good sitting rooms, some with open fireplaces; bedrooms have rich Mastro Raphael fabrics, linen sheets and handsome, luxurious bathrooms. Explore the steep, narrow cobbled streets, under arched buttresses, through porticoes, up and down tempting stone stairways, and you’ll find the restaurant, swimming pool, sauna and games room, the exhibition hall and the Umbrian boutique. There’s a weekly concert in the frescoed church, drama in the rose garden, a guest sitting room and library… It’s magical. Michele and Maria, who worked in London for years, run the place with friendly professionalism and willingly share their great local knowledge.