Streams of light reflect the Romanesque calm of this 11th-century church, whose nave makes a beautiful, lofty sitting room. Gnarled beams tangle overhead, and ancient stone pediments support a glass dining table with long views south towards Monte Subasio. Every stone, tile and wooden door has been sensitively restored by English owners, and a modern country kitchen comes with a double oven, marble sink and espresso machine. You can sip a cool drink by the slim outdoor pool, barbecue on a pergola-shaded terrace, and spend cosy nights around the wood-burner and grand piano. You sleep not in the church but in the farmhouse next door, whose elegant simplicity extends through terracotta-floored bedrooms, many with a terrace. Graceful wrought-iron beds carry memory-foam mattresses, antique wardrobes are meticulously restored and bathrooms have travertine showers and elegant round basins. Managers Chrissie and David help with the organic olives, vines and truffle woods, as well as a veg garden you’re welcome to sample. There are wild carp in the lake, trails from the gate, and picnics to be relished in the hills.