I Mandorli is aptly named: there’s at least one almond tree outside each apartment. The blossom in February is stunning and, in summer, masses of greenery shades the old casa padronale. Once the centre of a 200-hectare estate, the shepherd’s house and the olive mill in particular are fascinating reminders of days gone by. Mama Wanda is passionate about the whole lovely rambling place and will show you around, embellishing everything you see with stories about its history. Widowed, she manages the remaining 47 hectares, apartments and rooms, and cooks, aided by her three charming daughters: home-grown produce and excellent gnocchi every Thursday. Bedrooms are sweet, simple affairs with new wrought-iron beds and pale patchwork quilts; small bathrooms are spotless. Children will love the wooden slide and seesaw, the old pathways and steps on this shallow hillside, the new pool – wonderful to return to after cultural outings to Assisi and Spoleto. This is olive oil country so make sure you go home with a few bottles of the best.