Warm, welcoming, enticing, a delight for the senses and with spell-binding views. The 14th-century look-out tower is the oldest part of this mellow stone podere; the house is for B&Bers, the separate apartment in the barn for self-caterers. To a backdrop of ancient beams and flagstone floors, intriguing arches, undulating walls and small deep-set windows is an elegant and inviting décor: a huge fireplace with a 16th-century fireback, mismatched sofas heaped with cushions, side tables with magazines to browse, a collection of hats, books galore (vintage and new), a standard lamp of antlers… and fabulous idiosyncratic antiques: your hosts are in the trade in Milan. Graziella and Maurizio – both utterly charming – produce exquisite but simple dishes if you book in advance, give you homemade cakes at breakfast and jams in season, and big beautiful bedrooms, one with a stand-alone bath. For shops, bars and restaurants there’s ancient Montone, a mile up the hill. Classical music wafts in summer to pergolas entwined with wisteria and vines; seats are of wicker or wrought-iron. Irresistible, enchanting.