The white road takes you up, up, through the hills, until you reach four Umbrian farmhouses – and views swooping in every direction. Only on the day the Frattaris bought the place did they discover the 8th-century fortress, hidden beneath greenery on the nearby hill. Today that fortress is open for events, and is beautifully illuminated at night. This resort may be isolated but it’s bang on for families; Marco and his brother have been running it for years, and their passion shines through. There are 11 apartments in all, a super all-wood playground, a safely fenced terrace for bikes and trikes, a field for volleyball, rabbits, pigs, ducks and hens, a big glassy pool… the list goes on! The immaculate décor may be more repro than antique but there are old beams and cotto tiles a-go-go. Lofty reception doubles as a sitting room, with chess, games and magazines scattered about, and the restaurant is tastefully al fresco. Naturally the action takes place outside, and in summer it gets pretty crowded. When you need to escape you hop in the car, for Perugia, Assisi, Todi, Spoleto.