The agriturismo is Lucia’s baby, she looks after both 400-acre farm, growing crops and cattle, and guests wonderfully, having done B&B for five years now. So bowl along the flatlands of the Po Delta, pass the chicken factory, sweep up the poplar-lined drive – Lucia has planted hundreds – into a peaceful, jasmine-scented farmstead, resuscitated after carpet insect-bombing and now humming with frogs, bees and birds. Bats and swallows are back, too, and Lucia’s nature trail is brilliant. Brick paths link the main house (two bedrooms) to the rest in a converted farm building. Inside, all feels clean, simple, spacious and cool. Shower rooms are new, floors are warm with rugs, walls are light green and the ‘single’ beds in the annexe are more like small doubles. The beamed dining room is most inviting, meat roasts (and pizzas) are done in Lucia’s new wood-fired pizza oven. Breakfasts promise homemade tarts and the chestnut table seats 16. Friend Alberto knows the delta deeply – let him take you up the river for oysters. Or bicycle out into the flat reclaimed countryside.