The view is pure Venice; particularly evocative after dark, when the light softens. You can drink your bottle of prosecco with dinner and listen to the gondoliers navigate the canal. Palazzo Tiepolo Passi opens off a narrow alley, a gated courtyard to the rear and a communal hall (complete with marooned vessel) leading to the building’s apartments. Enter a bright salon with marble windows facing the canal and a kitchen hidden in a vast cabinet.
Two bedrooms have king-size beds and there’s an en suite bathroom with a Murano sink. Outside, a private pontoon is a good spot to watch the water traffic; public gondolas and vaporetti leave from here to famous names around the lagoon. You’ll feel like a Venetian, not a passing tourist, as you rub shoulders with the locals.
Some of the city’s finest churches are nearby: the Frari, Venice’s largest, and Scuola Grande di San Rocco, where Tintoretto spent some 23 years painting canvasses. La Serenissima’s most famous playwright, Goldoni, was a near neighbour; the Rialto market is close.