The countryside feels sparsely populated and a bit untamed here, even though you’re on the edge of a hamlet – trees cover the slopes and you can look out from the hillside towards the highest peak in mainland Portugal. Three lovely terraces in the gardens below the house provide great spots for reading or writing, as sunlight glitters through branches and the land drops into the valley below. This was once the country home of a landowner from a nearby village – above the stairs leading to the first floor is a magnificent window looking across to hilly summits, and bedrooms are bright and sleek, with granite walls and polished wood floors. Energetic Basque and Portuguese owners Iker and Marta lived in London for 15 years, honing their hospitality and catering skills, before following their B&B dream to this eco-friendly house. Stride out on walking trails that pass the gate, drive three miles to the nearest small town for picnic ingredients and restaurants, and a few miles further to the eclectic Caramulo art and motor museum. Porto airport is 90 minutes’ drive away.