What a place! it’s hard not to gush about this peaceful hilltop village with its lovely cottages and wonderful green views… The Batalhas found it on the edge of collapse in the 1990s and have restored it with huge care, flair and advice from its last inhabitants, harking back to the early 19th-century. Each cottage charms with finds from local markets: wooden chests, copper pots and pans, old sewing machines and radios, grandfather clocks, lanterns disguising lamp bulbs. All are thick-walled and low ceilinged with pretty, comfortable country beds and sofas, properly rustic kitchens with splashes of colour, stone sinks and bread ovens, and simple bath or shower rooms. Outside is equally seductive with bright paintwork, pots bursting with geraniums, peacocks and friendly farm animals. A generous breakfast of jams, cheese, ham, honey, fruit and freshly baked bread are brought to your door each morning. The little restaurant serves Portuguese tapas. You’re half an hour from Lisbon, even less from Sintra and coastal Eiriceira. Nearby: great walking, cycling, riding, the wolf sanctuary at Mafra, the model village of Sobreiro.