The manor house was built in 1746 for the chaplain of the Marques de Pombal and much of his magnificent furniture remains. This has been an epic restoration for English owners Penny and Tony who have fascinating stories to tell; note the tiled friezes inside and the stone aqueducts in the grounds. Your hosts couldn’t be nicer or more helpful, they’re child-friendly, have a daughter of their own, Charlotte, and have thought of everything to make your stay special. Big, elegant bedrooms – two in the house, the rest in the barn – are uncluttered and TV-free; bathrooms are spotless and new; one bath has been made from a wine press. Being so close to Lisbon – on the seam of suburbia and the rural beyond – there’s lots to see and do: Sintra, Obidos, beaches, all a train ride away. Breakfasts set you up beautifully for a busy day (homemade scones, chutneys, jams, eggs from their hens), the saltwater pool, lined with striped loungers, is a dream to come home to; there are ponies to ride and Izzy – the Portuguese waterdog – is the star of the show. Space and comfort in great measure… and perfect peace under the stars.