At the end of a long track surrounded by forest find an ancient watermill, once busy grinding wheat for the local monastery, now a tranquil place to stay with a large terrace, manicured garden and the river rushing round and underneath it – wild (strong) swimmers can hurl themselves into the water from several spots. The house has been in the family for generations and is filled with comfort and modern art, there’s a boat (you’ll need two strong people to carry it out) and bikes to borrow and local cheese and wine waiting when you get back. There’s space over two floors with the living room on the upper level – from here you can walk out onto the terrace with its large table and exceptional views. Across the way in a separate building is a ‘relax room’ with glass windows on three sides and hammocks strung about. Wander the garden which hums with fruit trees, herbs and potted plants, then a wilder area of meadow that leads down to the thundering river. Thick stone walls make for great soundproofing inside.