Casa Santa Filomena, a solid 1920s house tucked into a quiet corner of an already quiet village; peace is assured. When we visited in spring the old wisteria was in bloom, as pretty a welcome as you could wish for. A high wall runs around the property, girdling a small vineyard where local varieties of grape are grown. Elsewhere the profusion of flowers – roses, dahlias, azaleas, hydrangeas – is heady proof of the microclimate that this part of the Minho enjoys; breakfast juice comes from their own oranges. The Ukrainian housekeeper is charming but speaks very little English; if the owners are around, ask to see their collection of restored carriages. A swimming pool and tennis courts are a kilometre away, and wonderful beaches not much further: Afife is a favourite with bodyboarders, Praia da Arda is for surfers, and Ancora is dotted with restaurants. If you’re not a watersporter, then there’s walking along the dunes and around the hillside. Bedrooms are functional, comfortable and clean, with new curtains and watercolours. This is a good value place to stay.